We’re very privileged to be the first Malaysian media to cover this national park in Kalimantan. And naturally enough, I was the first Malaysian Chinese girl (Amoy) to explore the amazingly unspoilt forest.
Our journey was organised by the warm and efficient Borneo Jungle Safari people who are kindred spirits and treated us as part of their family. Sarawakians (and Borneons) are really nice folks – you’ve got to experience this for yourself. If any of you guys are keen in visiting Bakelalan and Kayan Mentarang National Park, these are the folks who will make all that possible. They’ll handle all the logistics, immigration matters at the guard posts and right up to communicating with the local Dayak folks for you, leaving you free to explore and enjoy the place in the company of their experienced and macho guides. *ahem*
City Girl in The Jungle
I’m a city girl at heart, really. But not once did I miss home during my time in Borneo. We ate like gluttons, rapidly developing a taste for their forest produce and our stomachs adjusted to being fed at least 6 times a day. That’s Dayak hospitality for you. Even if there’s only one guest, the whole village would turn up for a big feast together. The forest is their supermarket. The night before we arrived, some of them camped overnight at the forest to hunt for wild boars in preparation for the big feast. They were rewarded with two huge boars. The roasted ribs on the mat-covered floor were a glorious sight. Two dismembered heads of the pig kind were left boiling in the pots – the juices will be used as flavouring for other dishes.
The Dayaks are generally self-sufficient folks. The forest, fields and the rivers contain everything they need to survive. All, that is except sugar. The elderly father of our host rowed his long boat under the hot sun over to the nearest village – a two-hour journey – just to purchase 5kg of sugar for our needs. It broke our hearts to hear that. We could have easily purchased it for him in the town that we came from and saved the poor old man the trip. Again, that’s the Dayak brand of hospitality. They truly love having guests in their homes and will go all out to serve them.
To my delight, all the people I encountered there are Christians – making me feel at home all the more. Great evangelical work had been done there and it was thrilling to say grace with all of them prior to our hefty meals and to commit our journeys to the Lord each time we risk our necks travelling on the rough roads and rivers.
The Fall
I think one of the prayers saved my neck on the motorbike. One minute the rider was negotiating a slippery turn and the next, we were toppling to the mini ravine in slow mo. I found myself in denial mode, “Oh no, we’re not really falling, are we??!” But fall we most certainly did.
Talk about nightmares coming true. Still, it felt like I was gently lowered to the branches that separate me from the cliff below and the rider pulled me out in time before more of the branches broke. I escaped without any aches or injury. Traumatised but still determined to control the fear before letting it control my brains, I got back onto the bike. Well ok, it’s not like I had much choice. Trekking on foot would take far too long. And in the jungle, one is not exactly spoilt with choices when it comes to modes of transportation. You take and are grateful for what you are given, fears be d*mned. This kinda trip is definitely not for the faint-hearted.
On the journey home when we had to ride on those bikes again, they placed a plank on the slippery bit where I fell. All the other bikers and my colleagues were told with cheeky grins that this was where the accident happened. Nothing is secret in such a tight-knitted community. That being the case, why not go all out? I briefly toyed with the idea of putting a sign post there with my terror-strickened face with the message “Caution – Accident Site” in bold. What a great way to leave my mark behind, eh?

Taken minutes before that fateful slippery slope fall
I’ll let the photos do the talking when it comes to the amazing scenery. Photos which I will post later – so many to sieve through, wei.
Those with a thirst for adventure, archaleogical finds, nature and immersing themselves in a traditional village culture that is rapidly vanishing with the advent of development – do make your way there before it disappears. WWF and the Dayaks themselves are fighting to strike a good balance between bringing modernisation into their lives without compromising their rich forest heritage. Their efforts are commendable. Inadverdently, some of the old methods of doing things will disappear, so it’s best to witness and capture these moments for remembrance’s sake.
There’s No Place Like Bakelalan
And as for Bakelalan (which means Kelalan River – Ba’ is river), the Lun Bawangs there are related to the Dayaks over at Kalimantan – they share almost the same language and culture. The reverence for God is strong there and the people are so very warm and loveable. The view of the paddy fields and grazing buffaloes are simply breathtaking. I had the privilege of staying with the family of the late Dr. Judson Sakai Tagal (Bakelalan’s first Assemblyman) who perished in a tragic helicopter accident in 2004. I heard first-hand accounts of how the community bandied together in the search and rescue efforts which spanned two weeks. Through that very bleak and tough time, they supported each other – their faith in God unwavered. And today, they are growing from strength to strength. Pak Tagal, the one who pioneered apple planting there (yes, Bakelalan is the only place in Malaysia where sweet apples thrive!) is now busy experimenting with other colder climate crops. They have such resilience and big hearts that warmly envelopes all who are blessed to cross their paths. To the extent that even well-heeled Ang Moh (Caucasian) travellers would comment that this is the best place to meet the world’s nicest people ever.
Is it any wonder I didn’t want to leave Bakelalan?

Pak Tagal and I